In the 15th century and possibly much earlier, what we now call the kirtle was the common woman’s basic gown. It existed in sleeveless, short-sleeved, and long-sleeved versions and was worn directly over a woman’s linen smock or underwear. Worn with pinned or tied on sleeves, it could be dressed up or dressed down as suited the occasion. Noblewomen also wore this gown, but as an underlayer to their elaborate fur-lined or silk brocade gowns.